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2nd battery - winch fitted
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britindus
 


Member Since: 25 Apr 2008
Location: Christchurch
Posts: 193

New Zealand 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Tangiers OrangeDiscovery 3
2nd battery - winch fitted

some of you more knowledgable types maybe able to advise

im looking at the group buy on batteries and charging thingunmys

but I have a G4 D3 thats fitted with a Warn winch

questions are ..... any special things I should be taking care of with the 2nd battery while fitted with a winch???

I think somewhere in my readings in the past this needs to be handled in a different way??

ideas thoughts comments???

thanks

Simon
  
Post #30111320th May 2008 2:28 pm
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drivesafe
 


Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867

Australia 

Hi britindus, it depends on how you want to use your winch as to how you set up your dual battery system.

If you are only going to use your cranking battery, most controller will isolate as soon as the voltage drops once you start to winch but you may need to look at the operation of what ever type of controller you are planning to fit.

Many DBS controllers that are fitted with an optional manual switching set up to allow jump starting and will only tolerate very short periods of high current operations but are not suitable for using the same set up for winching and MUST be isolated in some way.

On the other hand, if you intend to use both batteries while winching then you will need some form of DBS controller bypass, again as very VERY few DBS controllers can handle the 200+ amps for prolonged periods of time.

The now accepted best practice for using a winch is to have the motor on high idle and winch for 60 seconds and rest for 90 seconds, then repeat.

Having the motor in high idle while resting give the battery(s) and chance to get some of the bulk charge replaced and lowers the chance of damaging the battery and continually provides high voltage during winching.

If you intend to use both batteries then it is necessary to fit some form of DBS Controller bypass device and the best form of bypass device is a marine battery switch, because of their high current carrying capacity.

Also if you intend to use both batteries while winching then both batteries must be cranking or dual purpose type batteries. Using a dedicated deep cycle battery for winching will guaranty a very sort operating life for any deep cycle type battery.

Again if you intend to use both batteries, you will also need to fit much thicker cables than would be necessary with a DBS set up.
 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7  
Post #30124020th May 2008 9:40 pm
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britindus
 


Member Since: 25 Apr 2008
Location: Christchurch
Posts: 193

New Zealand 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Tangiers OrangeDiscovery 3

drivesafe wrote:
Hi britindus, it depends on how you want to use your winch as to how you set up your dual battery system.

If you are only going to use your cranking battery, most controller will isolate as soon as the voltage drops once you start to winch but you may need to look at the operation of what ever type of controller you are planning to fit.

Many DBS controllers that are fitted with an optional manual switching set up to allow jump starting and will only tolerate very short periods of high current operations but are not suitable for using the same set up for winching and MUST be isolated in some way.

On the other hand, if you intend to use both batteries while winching then you will need some form of DBS controller bypass, again as very VERY few DBS controllers can handle the 200+ amps for prolonged periods of time.

The now accepted best practice for using a winch is to have the motor on high idle and winch for 60 seconds and rest for 90 seconds, then repeat.

Having the motor in high idle while resting give the battery(s) and chance to get some of the bulk charge replaced and lowers the chance of damaging the battery and continually provides high voltage during winching.

If you intend to use both batteries then it is necessary to fit some form of DBS Controller bypass device and the best form of bypass device is a marine battery switch, because of their high current carrying capacity.

Also if you intend to use both batteries while winching then both batteries must be cranking or dual purpose type batteries. Using a dedicated deep cycle battery for winching will guaranty a very sort operating life for any deep cycle type battery.

Again if you intend to use both batteries, you will also need to fit much thicker cables than would be necessary with a DBS set up.



thanks for the detailed answer

well mostly its to run fridge / radios etc off

if I can have a cheap(!) option to be able to a) connect the two and give me more winch capability if the engine wasnt running (ie stalled in a river!) then fine . ... or if for some reaon the main cranking battery is flat then be able to rely on no.2 Normally I would never winch without revs and engine running.

ive been looking at numerous system all range in price fro m 50 quid to like 300 quid!

I liked the IBS system cos I can see whats going on but something simpler would also be ok ---- KISS is sometimes a better approach!

thanks for the help and advice .. surely usefuls is this is pretty unknown territory for me!

rgds

Simon
  
Post #30143421st May 2008 1:00 pm
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TallPaul
 


Member Since: 03 Jan 2008
Location: Near Reading
Posts: 1214

United Kingdom 

Hey Simon,

If you just want a split charge system to run a fridge and radio's something like the drivesafe/traxide system is very good.

As I understand it however the drivesafe & wiring kit is 80A capacity so is not suitable for winching loads. You could look at the drivesafe and a separate 200A relay as a bypass in an emergency but this is all extra wiring and complications.

I looked at the IBS system as it has a 200A relay (temporary load 500A/5seconds) as the connection method between the primary and secondary batteries but the intelligence of monitoring and manual switching. I don't really hold a lot of value in the display to be honest but the button to manually join the batteries in an emergency is useful in my view. Also if it packed up at a critical point you could just wire the relay closed or open as required as a failsafe.

However of course as you note the various systems seem to vary wildely in price and features and suitability. As you have a winch I think there may be value in you having some system that uses a 200A relay or isolator, but this is based on theory rather than any practical experience on my part.

If you look to other forums a lot of people also found voltage sensing relays or contactors to be more than sufficient, ones that only join batteries when alternator is charging. There are a lot of marine products out there that fit the bill.

Whats not clear with other systems is how they handle the apparently higher than average charging voltages on the D3, which I understand from other posts (use search) is something the drivesafe system is designed to do.

Plenty of people on here have winches on their D3, so perhaps someone else will come along and give a view based on real world knowledge...

Paul
 Disco3 is now gone but not forgotten. Waiting for Disco6 with full aluminium construction weight reduction and hybrid engine...  
Post #30144621st May 2008 1:35 pm
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