Member Since: 15 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 94
My 04 D3 - Should i crack on with this repair list?
Hi all,
Looking for some advise please. I have an 04 D3 with 97k on the clock. I had it on the road for a year, before EPB failed, front driveshaft started clunking upon turning. I had it off the road for a few months to replace driveshaft, and front lower suspension arms. Also reset EPB. Had it back to the local specialist for an assessment ready for MOT and the list is shocking! I'm looking for advise on wether i should crack on with this full list, and if there are likely to be any nightmares:
OSR wheelbearing play
Front flexis corroded
Front to rear brake pip incorrectly routed
Slight play rear tracet (SP?!) arms (cant read what this says!)
OSR upper arm bush perished and play
rear arb bushes play
rear flexi ferrules corroded
turbo drain leak
heatshield missing from around turbo
rear disc shield rotten
underside generally corroded
sump rusty
Many of these seem simple - sump, disc shield. What do we make of the rest of the list please?
Thanks
Mike
[/list]
16th Oct 2020 3:45 pm
Kilovolt
Member Since: 29 Jun 2015
Location: South Derbyshire
Posts: 1020
(underside generally corroded)
Yikes!!
How long is that piece of string so to speak. I would make sure that the underside is recoverable before I tackled any so-called 'engineering' jobs.
Depending on how bad that is, it might not make financial sense to pursue the other stuff.
Just my thoughts. Good luck "Track day running - Don't put your foot back on the accelerator until your absolutely sure you don't have to take it off again"
Current Ride: D4 XS Commercial Baltic Blue SDV6 fully loaded with heated everything
Track Days: BMW E36 M3 Evolution MY 1996 (3.2 Litre 377 BHP sat in 1,250 Kgs of car, with a pro safety cage and some serious braking power)
16th Oct 2020 4:09 pm
MatcherMike
Member Since: 15 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 94
Thanks for the reply. The whole chassis has general corrosion on it, along with suspension components etc. The chassis is solid however.
I've watched some videos on suspension arm replacement, and the corrosion on mine seems no worse than many of those.
Mike
16th Oct 2020 4:24 pm
G3Z
Member Since: 16 Dec 2018
Location: South Wales
Posts: 537
As above, as long as the rust issue doesn’t bother you to tackle, then the list is all small items really.
I’ve worked it out that it’s roughly £1,000 a year to keep an older D3 on the road. So as long as your within the 1000 ball park - it’s about right. All just my opinion, of course.Defender 110 2.4 TDCi Utility Station Wagon.
2007 Disco 3 GS TDV6 Manual
200,000+ mile club 😎
16th Oct 2020 4:48 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
Most of those items are indeed small enough except for the rear disc shield/backplate. The hub and knuckle have to be separated to remove it, and the wheel bearing will also need to be replaced. It will make sense to renew all the knuckle / handbrake components if they are found to be worn or corroded.(not expensive)
You could "short circuit" the back plate replacement by cutting off the old one and then cut and weld in the new shield. Not my way of doing things but I know others have done it this way, and it would only make sense if everything else in there is good! yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
16th Oct 2020 6:01 pm
MatcherMike
Member Since: 15 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 94
Thanks for the reply.
Good info - i didn't know i'd need to take it apart to replace the backplate. Had assumed they are like the front. The wheel bearing is the part that worries me the most, as i have air tools, and plenty of sockets etc, but no press.
I am considering a second hand complete knuckle/hub unit off the bay as this will (hopefully) sort wheel bearing issue, and get me some new backplates, all the while avoiding the issues with not having a press.
I am of course assuming a press is essential for replacing the bearing, and the top and bottom knuckle bushes.
The arb bushes are my other worry - i don't want the bolts to shear!
Gonna pick me up an air saw tomorrow and give it a go removing the upper arms.
Cheers
Mike
16th Oct 2020 6:28 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
Just cut the arms off as close as possible to the bushes if the bolts are seized. This will give you better access and replace the complete arm. The knuckle you refer to on ebay will have to have the backplates fitted as well as the bearing, otherwise you're back to square one! You can fit the knuckle bushes without the use of a press as a threaded bar would do it as would a bench vice. There is a circlip on the upper knuckle bush which needs removal, but there is none on the lower bush.
The other thing to be aware of is pulling the hub away from the drive shaft. This can be seriously seized in place and only the very biggest hyd puller from a hire shop will budge it. That said, you might be lucky and it might fall into your lap. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
16th Oct 2020 6:57 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Couple of tricks for wheel bearings
Couple of tricks I've done for a seized wheel bearing:
On a '66 International Scout I own I had a bearing seized in the hub, luckily due to wear the inner bearing sleeve had worn out where I could knock it out of the outer bearing surface with a hammer and bar. I then had a bearing sleeve seized in the hub. I used a small welder and welded around the inner circumference, trying to do a full circle that connected inside of the middle of the sleeve, then another toward each end of the sleeve. As the welds cooled it pulled the sleeve toward the center and pretty much all but fell out.
I had seen this done on Excavator pin bushings, so I tried it and it worked perfectly. For replacing I applied heat to the hub, not cherry red, just got it hot enough that you wouldn't want to touch it and placed the new bearing in the freezer a couple of days prior to cool and constrict the bearing. Tap Tap right in it went and it worked perfectly.
Consider though this was a 1966 model year so the original steel was probably just that, good solid steel. Not sure if this would work in your case, and full disclosure I had a replacement ready in case of failure.
Luckily my dad had a small welder so I had the tools mostly at hand. Ive not replaced a rear on a LR, I did the fronts but those I got in a full already together "cassette" as you probably already know. You can also buy the upper and lower control arms with bushings and ball joints in place. When its time I plan to buy the whole arms with bushes in place, new bolts in case old ones are seized and need cutting. But my LR is originally one owner bought used from Florida so hardly any corrosion due to no road salts, etc. I just replaced all air shocks and those bolts just took some extra leverage as there was zero rust or corrosion involved.
Your concern on the ARB bolts might be accurate, not sure if you snapped a head off you could even get a drill or easy out in there to get at it.
Good Luck,2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
16th Oct 2020 7:53 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Vids on yoututbe for rear bearing renewal with no press.
17th Oct 2020 5:03 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
Plus 1 what the others have said
Also found this video , don’t know if it’s any help but got a puller kit which I found invaluable , did buy the upper arms complete with the bushes already fitted , used the puller kit to do the upper hub bearing
Hope that helps
17th Oct 2020 8:22 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
Re: Couple of tricks for wheel bearings
Ruper wrote:
Couple of tricks I've done for a seized wheel bearing:
On a '66 International Scout I own I had a bearing seized in the hub, luckily due to wear the inner bearing sleeve had worn out where I could knock it out of the outer bearing surface with a hammer and bar. I then had a bearing sleeve seized in the hub. I used a small welder and welded around the inner circumference, trying to do a full circle that connected inside of the middle of the sleeve, then another toward each end of the sleeve. As the welds cooled it pulled the sleeve toward the center and pretty much all but fell out.
I had seen this done on Excavator pin bushings, so I tried it and it worked perfectly. For replacing I applied heat to the hub, not cherry red, just got it hot enough that you wouldn't want to touch it and placed the new bearing in the freezer a couple of days prior to cool and constrict the bearing. Tap Tap right in it went and it worked perfectly.
Consider though this was a 1966 model year so the original steel was probably just that, good solid steel. Not sure if this would work in your case, and full disclosure I had a replacement ready in case of failure.
Luckily my dad had a small welder so I had the tools mostly at hand. Ive not replaced a rear on a LR, I did the fronts but those I got in a full already together "cassette" as you probably already know. You can also buy the upper and lower control arms with bushings and ball joints in place. When its time I plan to buy the whole arms with bushes in place, new bolts in case old ones are seized and need cutting. But my LR is originally one owner bought used from Florida so hardly any corrosion due to no road salts, etc. I just replaced all air shocks and those bolts just took some extra leverage as there was zero rust or corrosion involved.
Your concern on the ARB bolts might be accurate, not sure if you snapped a head off you could even get a drill or easy out in there to get at it.
Good Luck,
Hi
Wished to say I’ve never heard of that before , respect as nice learning something new
Is this the kind of thing ur talking about as per the video plse, thks for sharing such a great tip
17th Oct 2020 8:34 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Used to use the weld the bearing trick years ago, we used a stick welder as I am not sure we had a mig!
17th Oct 2020 4:12 pm
MatcherMike
Member Since: 15 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 94
Thanks for all the great comments and links all.
I decided to get started on the list today - tackling the rear upper arms. Decided i'm going to replace rear lowers too, so stripped them. Only got one side done in the 4 1/2 hours i had at it. All bolts came free apart from the upper rearmost bolt, which took 3 milwaukee reciprocating saw blades to cut loose. Angle ground the arm off to get it out of the way.
Knuckle pulled off driveshaft ok. Had to cut the rear ARM link rod free. Will replace the height sensor, as i have rears from a set i bought when replacing fronts. Bottled doing them back then as the retaining screws are corroded and access was poor to try and remove. No such issues now though!
Will order a complete brake pipe set from AF so that will sort the one advisory.
Still 50/50 on what to do with the wheel bearing. I hammered out one of the bearings in the knuckle as i had to cut it to remove it. The other one is proving more difficult. I'm thinking they press in one side only, so need to work that out.
Brake cable was a massive pain. Couldn't unscrew the plastic screw on bit on the back of the plate. Can't get the cable out of the backplate either. I've had to sacrifice it and cut it, so need a new cable for this side now.
All in all, tiring work but progress. Tackle the other side tomorrow, and then think about parts list, and the wheel bearing.
May invest in a 6t press
Click image to enlarge
17th Oct 2020 8:54 pm
MatcherMike
Member Since: 15 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 94
PROFSR G wrote:
There is a circlip on the upper knuckle bush which needs removal, but there is none on the lower bush.
Just remembered this comment - That'll be my issue with the bush i have left in! Doh Will check again tomorrow.
Thanks!
17th Oct 2020 8:56 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
Well you have definitely made a lot of progress but cutting the brake cable was a bit drastic as you will now have to open the module to replace it.
Don't waste your money on a 6 ton press, you're going to need at least 20t and I have seen them struggle with these bearings! Surely the best option is to ask around a few garages or engineering shops if they will do it for you?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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